I had a terrific flight from the US to Tel Aviv. I took EL AL airlines, and their new Dreamliner 787 Business class provided excellent food and service. I never usually sleep on planes, but I got in a few hours of shut-eye. I am not sure what knocked me out, maybe it was the 2 gin and tonics.
Once I got to the airport, Archaeological Paths (AP) had someone meet me in the baggage claim area and then had arranged a taxi to take me straight to the Dan Jerusalem, in Jerusalem which was about 50 minutes away.
By the time I got to my room, it was only noon, and I was not tired. I did not even unpack. We are only at this hotel for 2 days, so I decided I will just pull out things as I need them. Plus, I wanted to make sure I got some sightseeing done before the tour begins tomorrow.
Getting to the Western Wall, no I mean the Kotel
I first wanted to deliver some prayers at the Western Wall. When I went to get a taxi, my app for taxi service in Israel, GETT, was not working correctly, so I asked the valet to get me a taxi. She asked me where I was going, so I told her the Wailing Wall. She could not understand what I meant, so I said the Western Wall. Again still nothing, so I googled Western Wall on my phone and showed her the results. She finally understood me. I guess I should have just said Kotel. https://english.thekotel.org/
Once I haggled with my taxi driver over the fair, I was on my way. Getting into the ancient city took quite a while. Traffic is just as congested as Boston, but my taxi driver who did not speak too much English was super friendly and tried to point out “attractions” to me.
Western Wall
Once I got inside the City Walls, I pretty quickly could see where everyone was praying. I first had to go through a security line for women. The wall separated into a men’s section and a woman’s section, but both areas could look over a partition to see what was happening on the other side. I peeked over to see a Rabbi reading from the Torah, and a young boy becoming a man during his Bar Mizpah.
After some waiting, I got my way to the actual wall. I stuck my prayer in a crack plus three prayers from my friends. One prayer envelope was so big I had to grab a chair to stand on just to find a crack big enough to hold it.
Red String Blessing
Walking out, a Rabbi stopped me. He tied a red string on my left wrist. I was not sure of the meaning, but I thought it might be a blessing, so I let him tie it on me. I was not sure if I would have to pay for it, but just as he finishes tying it on me a very good-looking young Israeli military officer (gun and all) outstretched his left arm to the Rabbi. He wanted one too, and I became swiftly ignored, so I walked away. I guess the Rabbi lost his sale, but I would pay for it later on.
Oskar Schindler
Next, I was off to see Oskar Schindler’s grave since I did not think this would be part of the tour itinerary tomorrow. I am very sad to say; I did not use google maps and got very lost. I walked past the Dung and Zion Gate and all the way to the Jaffa Gate when I figured out I went too far.
Where is the cemetary?
I was walking along when the jet lag wore for only a moment. It hit me like a thunderbolt. I realized they would never put a cemetery inside the city walls. How stupid of me. The walls are continuous until you get to a gate (duh) so I had to backtrack a lot. Once I got back to the Zion Gate, I walked out and started heading downhill, figuring I would find a cemetery. I then remembered reading online before my trip it is across from King David’s Tomb. It was, and I finally found the cemetery.
My imagination got carried away
Once I passed through the gates, I came across a large group of older adults. They were just about to head up a set of stairs I was heading down. Suddenly, many of them outstretched their arms like they were welcoming me into their fold. Boy, did I feel special, that was until I realized all the people in the group were deaf. I caught onto this when I saw people “signing” to one another. I think they were complaining about more stairs to climb. My ego instantly got deflated.
After I found the grave, I paid my respects and placed on a stone the lid.
I then wanted to see the Golden Gate so I thought it would be a good idea to ask directions this time. (Here is a great article on its backstory) https://www.haaretz.com/israel-news/.premium-for-over-1-000-years-j-lem-s-golden-gate-has-been-at-center-of-religious-conflicts-1.7046254
The Rabbi with Nine Children
I then spotted a Rabbi that was just about to pass me by (just one of a hundred) I spotted on this day and I asked him, “Can you please tell me how to get to the Golden Gate?” He said, “No, what is this Golden Gate?”
What, what, what? How could a Rabbi not know where the Golden Gate is?
I then said, “It is the sealed gate where some say it will reopen for the Messiah-the place of the Last Judgement.” He told me to go back to the Wailing Wall, so I gave up, said thank you. I was about to head off when he asked me if I could give him a few dollars for his family. He then pulled out a photo of his family. He had nine children. I said yes, I could give him a few dollars, and then looked in my clear bag for some small bills, but the smallest bill I had was a twenty, so I gave it to him. Then he says, “I really need $100. I have a family to feed.”
What, what, what? You asked for a few dollars. I gave you twenty, but then you eye my stash and want more.
I politely said no more, and while blessing words streamed from his mouth, I walked away. Twenty dollars down and no directions.
How could the Rabbi not know of the Golden Gate? It is right here on this map located beside another gate. (PS: I found this map following my contribution to his family. (LOL) In all honestly, I did not mind helping him out and I did not get a chance to pay another Rabbi for my red string bracelet.
Still searching for the Golden Gate
I had to think over in my very tired mind…look for a Muslim cemetery right outside the wall. In addition, I figured it is a popular tourist spot so look for lots of people.
I went down a large hill and came up to a location that we are visiting tomorrow, the Second Temple period Shiloah Pool. It is beside the Mount of Olives cemetery. I was way off course, and now I had a huge hill to climb back up. Here is where all that mountain training work pays off; it was not too bad. (Update: I was wrong on this location too! I walked down to the tombs Hezir and Zechariah in the Kidron Valley at the foot of the Mount of Olives)
I then looked up and saw the cemetery and started following a wall around to see if I could find an entrance. I walked for a good 10 minutes and could not find an opening to get in. I then walked back to where I almost started and low, and behold, I found the entrance. Had I not crossed the street to follow some other tourists, I would have seen it long ago.
Mount of Olives Jewish Cemetery Stairs, stairs And more stairs Muslim Cemetery and the Golden Gate
When I got there, yes, there was a horde of tourists right outside the gate.
Other fun facts: I tried to pass into a Muslim police protected area. I thought there was a shortcut to cross through the city, and I cannot read Arabic. When I tried to pass, one very pleasant armed guard asked me if I was Arab. He smiled at me like he would let me go through, but then another officer spoke up and said no.
While I had lots of fun, it will be helpful to hear the history of this incredible place from a knowledge guide tomorrow. I also know I will not get lost.
If you enjoy reading my posts about Egypt, STEM, Drones, MIT, mountains, or mysteries I hope you will want to run out and purchase my first book, “Osiris Returns”. With some luck, it should come to market late 2020 / early 2021. Please consider staying in the loop. An email sign-up form is located at the bottom of my home page along with my social media links. Your email will only be used to alert you when my book comes out. I will not use or share your email for any other purpose.